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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.